Sunday 13 April 2014

The POG! Roadside new routing in the Mournes???

For years now I have looked up at Pog Precipice (located just up and right from the main cliff at Pigeon Rock, Mournes) and thought there must be some new lines to go.  When chatting with folk you get the usual crap, rock is bad, no gear blah blah blah. I have only climbed on the cliff once and that was with Hillerberg a few years back.  The routes that we climbed that day were Ian Rea's E3s.  The quality of climbing was exceptional and at the time the routes were spotless.  I would say on that day Hillerberg and I did the second ascents and they probably have not been touched since.

So last week I took a dander up with Kahlua and abbed the steep face left of Honeybunch. I remember spotting a few pegs on the wall when look at it years ago.  It turns out they were put in by Ian Rea years ago but he didn't fancy the line so it remained unclimbed. When I abbed it there was some bold looking sections but with a bit of cleaning it looked like it just might go!  I also spotted a line just to the right. Once I removed a bit of suspect rock, it was good to go as well.

On Friday 11th April I headed up with Kev Kilroy to see if the routes would go.  I was pretty chuffed when I managed to climb them both and they were both excellent.  The style of the routes are unlike anything that I have ever climbed in the Mournes. overhang by about 6 feet, have good protection with positive climbing on largely sound rock.  With its close proximity to the road there is no reason why these routes should not see huge amount of traffic.  They might even suit all the really strong Awesome Walls climbers as well!!! Get on them and let us know what they are like.

Route descriptions below.


The One That Got A-Rea, pic Eamon Quinn



The one that got A-Rea E4 6a *** 25m
P. Swail & K. Kilroy   11/04/2014

Low in the grade. Start on the left side of Pog Precipice below 2 old pegs.  Climb the v-groove and make hard moves past the 2nd peg. Climb boldly up and left to hold above a square block. From here climb the wall slightly right via a thin crack (hard) until a small pedestal is reached. Finish delicately up and right to join 'Just like Poetry'.









Just like Poetry. pic K. Kilroy






Just like Poetry E3 5c *** 25m
P. Swail, K. Kilroy & E. Quinn   11/04/2014

Pumpy, steep, well protected climbing and destined to become a classic.  Start 2m right of 'The One That Got A-Rea' below a right trending undercut crack. Climb this and continue direct passing a wonder pocket until a small roof is reached.  Make some technical moves left to join a finger crack and continue direct until easy ground is reached via an easy step left. Brilliant from start to finish!








NB - please don't climb the 2 lines to the right I have cleaned!
Happy dog and climber!

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